Fave Plant Rant: Edgeworthia chrysantha

Edgeworthia gardneri
Scientific Name:  Edgeworthia chrysantha (syn.:  Edgeworthia papyrifera), Edgeworthia gardneri

Common Name:  Oriental Paperbush, Indian Paperbush

Family:   Thymelaeaceae


This is the first in a new series on entries for Horticouture.  People always ask me what my favorite plant is.  Well, that's like choosing your favorite child (more difficult for some mothers than others).  So, the "Fave Plant Rants" will showcase the plants that I would devote a place in my garden to if I had a limited amount of space.  



The Oriental Paperbush and its close cousin, the Indian Paperbush are fantastic, yet almost entirely unknown shrubs for the garden.  Often they are called evergreen paperbushes, but in our temperate Washington, DC winters, they do eventually drop their leaves in the winter.  These gems are often available only from specialty mail-order catalogs and are rarely found outside the gardens of collectors and botanical gardens in the US.  However, a paperbush is certainly worth the effort to find and plant in your garden.  


During the growing season, the paperbush exhibits deep green leaves with a bluish-silver cast to them that are long, rounded and almost resemble the foliage of a Rhododendron.  Although many would consider it a shrub to plant for spring interest, the foliage is actually very attractive and adds an interesting element of texture to any summer garden.  In the late fall or early winter in temperate climates the leaves will eventually turn a beautiful golden yellow color before dropping off the plant to reveal its unique habit with gracefully upward arching branches covered in attractive light grey bark.  


After the leaves have senesced, the true gems of the paperbush are revealed.  Drooping fuzzy white clusters of white buds decorate every branch tip almost as if someone had decorated the shrub for the holidays.  One can't help but get a closer look to examine the buds and feel their silky texture.  They are a promise of the spring to come and you will find yourself checking them throughout the cold winter months for any sign of swelling.  


Then, all of a sudden in late February (about the time that the witchhazels are blooming) you will notice the buds starting to perk up.  They quickly come to life and on one of those surprisingly warm early winter days the buds will burst open showing their creamy yellow throats and releasing a cloud of ecstasy-inducing fragrance into the garden.  The flowers will be buzzing with early honeybees and everyone who passes it will stop upon smelling the aroma and immediately begin a quest to find its source.  There are very few plants that possess such magical power to enchant the senses at a time of the year when we all need a break from the monotony of winter.


Edgeworthias originate in the mountainous forests and shrubby slopes of eastern Asia and have long been in cultivation in China and Japan.  They prefer to be sited in rich garden soil that is slightly to moderately acid and rich in organic material.  Moderate, consistent but well drained moisture is best.  They are thought to be hardy from zone 7b to zone 10, with moderate success in colder portions of zone 7 and possibly protected garden situations in zone 6.  In some colder winter regions, plants may grow adequately, but flowering may be damaged by spring frosts.  Plant in spring and supply with an initial feeding of organic fertilizer added to the root zone to encourage adequate root growth before the onset of cold weather in fall.  Paperbushes are low-maintenance shrubs so even novice gardeners should have success with them.


These fantastic specimens have only recently experienced some amount of popularity thanks to highest exaltations from many plant collectors and explorers.  Recently, some mail-order companies have begun to offer some very exciting selections that I can't wait to try myself.  Take the time to enjoy the links to more information included below.  


Dan Hinkley's write-up on the genus Edgeworthia
Botanical information from the original description of Edgeworthia
Dave's Garden Entry for Edgeworthia chyrsantha (See who else is growing it!)


Mail Order Companies that Offer selections of Edgeworthia:

Treasures from Barneys: Comme des Garçons Series 3 - Incense: Kyoto & Avignon


Last weekend I also got a chance to try out the five fragrances in Comme des Garçons Incense Series. The series was released in 2001 after the 2 previous series (Leaves and Red), which in my opinion were far less interesting that the incense series. Although they have been out a while and I've always wanted to smell them I never had the chance as I don't know of any places in Washington, DC that carry them. Well, that all changed when I (finally) got to go to Barneys in New York.

The five fragrances in the incense series (Kyoto, Avignon, Jaisalmer, Ouarzazate, and Zagorsk) were all inspired by five different holy sites representing different religions and regions of the world and the fact that nearly all religions have a history of the use of incense in holy buildings for both meditative purposes and to ward of the evil spirits. Of all five, Kyoto and Avignon were easily my favorites.

Kyoto: Inspired by the use of incense in both Buddhist and Shinto religious practices and the humility and meditative culture of the monks of Kyoto, Kyoto, the fragrance, is certainly light than some of the other incense fragrances in the series. I think that this may be due in part to its somewhat more "green" qualities and that I find it to be possibly the most exotic. The notes in Kyoto are vetiver, patchouli, coffee, amber, incense, cypress oil, teak wood, cedar, and immortelle. The initial burst of the fragrance is a inspiring rush of coffee and patchouli, however these soon give way to the dark, "incensy" woods at its heart. The combination of patchouli, coffee, and cedar probably explain why it's my favorite of the line.

I highly recommend Kyoto to anyone interested at all in incense fragrances. It truly will make you feel as if you are sitting in a zen garden in a Buddhist monastery. So spray a little on, close your eyes and feel the calm take over. (While you're at it check out some of Kyoto's famous gardens)

Avignon: Avignon, in the region of Provence-Alpes-Côte-d'Azur in the South of France, was once the religious center of Europe as it belonged to the Roman Catholic Popes for 400 years (1349-1791). In the heart of Provence, its beautiful location on the banks of the Rhone River and its stunning papal palaces make it quite an inspiration for all who visit. It's no wonder that a city with such a wealth of Roman Catholic city should inspire a fragrance based on incense. Comme des Garçon's Avignon is a beautifully respectful and smoky fragrance that is not all dull as one may expect. Instead, like Giorgio Armani's Bois d'Encens, Kyoto is a remarkably accurate yet wearable (for men at least) recreation of the incense used in the Catholic churches of Europe to this day. The notes of Avignon include Roman camomile, ambrette, myrrh, cistus oil, elemi, incense, patchouli and vanilla. Unlike Kyoto, there is no initial burst when one applies Avignon. Instead, the smoky incense scent is present and one imagines that a priest has just walked by on his procession. The top notes progress into even deeper and darker notes and one can't help but think reverently about the grand cathedrals of France and Italy. Where Kyoto inspires a sort of connection to the peace of nature, Avignon inspires a a feeling of connection to the heavens above.

Note: If you're not finding yourself anywhere near a store that carries Comme des Garçons, look for them online at LuckyScent ($62 for 50ml or try a 1/32oz sample for $3)

Treasures from Barneys: L'Artisan Parfumeur: L'Été en Douce


Last weekend, during my most recent trip to New York, I made my first visit to Barneys. Despite my having been to New York many many times, I had never actually made the trip to the flagship store on Madison Avenue. I have to say I have never had such a pleasant shopping experience. Barneys makes Saks and Neiman Marcus look like JCPenny. It's a beautiful store with the best customer service I've ever had. The fragrance counters are especially great. The SA's are awesome and very helpful (My favorites were Lawrence Applebaum at the L'Artisan counter and Tyler Mayo. I'm sure many of you know of the great lines that Barneys carries, but for those of you who don't I'll list just a few: all of L'Artisan, Parfums de Rosine, i Profumi di Firenze, Frédéric Malle, Serge Lutens, Comme des Garcons, Carthusia; not to mention a full Le Labo boutique. All in all, it makes other department stores look dull and uninteresting and I'm finding myself wanting to move to NYC just to be near it.

While at Barneys I did manage to snag two fragrances for my collection and add two others that I plan to get (when I can afford them):

L'Été en Douce: First, I bought L'Été en Douce by L'Artisan Parfumeur. It used to be called Extrait de Songes, but was pulled from the market after a trademark dispute with Annick Goutal (who first released Songes). It has been relaunched in the classic L'Artisan bottle and is currently only available at Barneys in New York under the new name "L'Été en Douce". It is available in a 3.4 oz bottle only for $125.

I have to admit that this fragrance is quite out of my normal preferences for fragrances, but I am wholly in love with it. Literally translated from French it means "the summer in soft", but the idea of it is that it is meant to portray that soft fragrant smell of early summer. This it certainly does. Upon applying to the skin, first one notices the vibrant top notes of rose essence and mint leaves much like the crisp fresh, but fragrant scent of the morning mist in early summer. The top notes fade into the heart notes of orange blossom water, linden, and fresh hay and eventually the memorable base of white woods and musks emerges. The combination is magical and although I often think orange blossom and rose are used far too often, it is not overtly floral. The floral notes are well-balanced with the hay, linden, and base notes. When wearing the fragrance I can't help but picture fields of Provence in June. The image is so strong you can smell the lavender, even though I'm not sure it's even a true note in the fragrance (it's not listed as one). Perhaps, it's the combination of mint (both in the Lamiaceae family) and some of the other notes. Nonetheless, next time you want to imagine you are basking in the sunlight in the south of France, just spritz yourself a few times with L'Été en Douce. (More info and reviews: Now Smell This, osMoz)

Reviews of others are soon to follow!

Fragrance Notes: Patchouli

This is the first of many posts to come about plants that are commonly used in perfume. I think it's important for us fragrance fanatics to have some idea of where the smells we wear come from.

The Basics:
Scientific Name: Pogostemon cablin
Family: Lamiaceae (Mint Family)
Origin: East Asia


History:
The common name "Patchouli" originates from the Tamil language from India and Sri Lanka. The roots of the name are the Tamil words "patchai" (meaning "green") and "ellai" (meaning "leaf"). The plant has been used for centuries for perfume among other things.

Originally, patchouli was used in East Asia both for its scent and its health benefits such as its use in Japan and Malaysia for the treatment of poisonous snake bites and its widespread use in Asia for aromatherapy to promote mental clarity and relaxation.

In the 18th century, Patchouli was introduced to the west by Chinese silk traders transporting silk to the Middle East. The strong scent and oils of patchouli are known to have strongly-moth repellent properties and were packed with silk cloth to repel moth infestations during transit. The silk and leaves eventually found their way to Europe, where patchouli was considered to be a scent of luxury, likely because of the association with expensive Chinese silks. This trend has continued in the perfume industry to this day.

During the war in Vietnam, American soldiers would use patchouli to mask the smell of the graves of those killed in combat. At home in the US, patchouli simultaneously became very popular with the "hippies" and war protesters of the day. War demonstrators would scent themselves with patchouli to represent the fallen soldiers in Vietnam. It is also undeniable that another reason for its surge in popularity was the ability of its strong scent to cover the scent of marijuana smoke. It has experienced a somewhat negative connotation in the US as it is often associated with "hippie" culture as it was often used in the place of bathing.

Today:
Today, patchouli is one of the main ingredients of about one third of the world's luxury fragrances and is most common in chypre, woody and oriental fragrances. Fragrances containing patchouli include famous fragrances such as Anateus and Chance by CHANEL, Habit Rouge and Jicky by Guerlain, Eau d'Orange Verte by Hermés, and PRADA Woman. In some, it is the featured ingredient, such as Patchouli Patch from L'Artisan Parfumeur of Paris and Patchouli Pure from the Fresh Index line of fragrances. The oils can often be bought from most essential oil retailers and blend well with sandalwood, lime, and ylang ylang. In most recent years patchouli has fallen slightly out of vogue in Europe and the US, but is still very common in Asia and Latin America.

It is also used commonly in East Asian incense and for the scenting of household products such as paper towels, detergents, and air fresheners. The essential oils derived from the plant are used by some in herbal remedies and the scent is claimed to promote relaxation as it is said to promote mental balance and has a positive effect on emotional sensitivity. The oils are said to be effective in treating acne and skin inflammations. They are also said to have antifungal and insecticidal properties.

Today, patchouli is grown mainly in the East and West Indies commercially. Most distillations are done in China, Indonesia, and India. The oils are easily obtained from the dried leaves via steam distillation. The major chemical component of the oils is patchoulol, which like many terpenes is a complex organic molecule thought to be responsible for giving patchouli its characteristic scent (and flavor if Patchouli were edible).